Monday, June 1, 2009
Zion National Park, Utah
We opted to stay in Zion for five nights. It’s been wonderful to remain in one place for a while, especially given how beautiful Zion is. The huge canyon walls, sandstone monoliths (some of the largest in the world) and the desert climate that characterize Zion are made more picturesque and unique by the cooling and life-giving Virgin River that flows through the park.
The river is right near our campground and as temperatures soared into the mid 90’s we’ve cooled off swimming there most afternoons. Sometimes an impressive thunderhead would build n the late afternoon and deluge the park with cooling wind and rain. The sun would be back out drying up the place in just a few short hours.
Every night the wind blows and we find ourselves ever grateful to be camped in a van rather than a tent. In the late evenings we can sometimes hear the new/first-time arrivals to the park banging in additional pegs to better secure their soft-shelled tents as the night winds nearly bend them in half.
Today, our last full day in the park, we arranged an early start to tackle the famous Angels Landing trail – a strenuous 1,500 foot climb along a 2 mile trail with multiple switchbacks. There is also an additional half-mile scramble at the end of the trail along a precarious rocky ledge out to the top of a large sandstone outcrop that provides a panoramic view into Zion valley below.
As a hike pre-condition we told the girls they could stop at any point they felt tired (or nervous). We’re pleased to report that everyone made it up the first 2 miles – arriving at Scout Lookout to savor the epic view that precedes the final half-mile scramble out to Angels Landing.
Seeing the trail change markedly from a pathway to a chain-supported, sometimes vertical climb across very uneven terrain, the girls took pause to consider how far they’d attempt. Eventually Ruth opted to give it a try and, accompanied by Doug, made it a few hundred yards out along the rock scramble to the safety of a flat viewing area before deciding she was done.
Ahead lay a small descent onto a knife-edge trail with 1,200 to 1,500 foot drops on either side before a nearly vertical ascent to the final platform of Angels Landing. She was the youngest and smallest person out on the trail that far. We took “victory” photos then returned to switch with Rose.
Rose had spent time gathering her courage and opted to head out with Doug again to the same location that Ruth had gone. More “victory” photos then a scramble back to regroup with the family. A small snack, then a return hike along the 2 mile trail down to the valley floor below.
The day had warmed considerably since our early morning start and the sun beat down harshly as we returned to the trailhead. Nearby Zion Lodge had an inviting green field for us to enjoy our picnic lunch so we hung out under the shade of a huge, 200-year old Cottonwood tree and happily munched away.
Returning to the sun-baked campsite, the cooling Virgin River began calling us. We headed to the river and paddled, swam and jumped from the banks into the coursing flow before drying out on the sandy shore. (Fortunately, these afternoon swims have also served as our showers since we’ve been without that service since arriving in the park).
A few hours later, the afternoon thunderheads had built again and unleashed a cooling torrent of rain over our campsite before moving up canyon.
Zion has provided an idyllic camping and National Park experience. Tomorrow we head to the neon-infused, fast-paced, gambling Mecca that is Las Vegas. Our weather forecast is for some extremely hot days ahead.
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